The hilltop town of Motovun above rows of vineyards in inland Istria, Croatia

a sample plan, 7 days

7 days in Istria, Croatia, a road trip itinerary

Istria is Croatia's heart-shaped peninsula at the top of the Adriatic, with Venetian harbour towns on the coast and hilltop villages inland. This week-long road trip uses two bases, so you only pack up once.

Plan my trip

Quick answer: Base yourself in Rovinj for four nights: see Roman Pula, Rovinj’s old town, the Brijuni Islands National Park and Cape Kamenjak. Then drive past the Lim Channel and Poreč to an inland base near Motovun for three nights, for truffles, Grožnjan, Hum and the Glagolitic Alley. Rent a car; inland Istria is hard to reach by bus.

  • The Roman amphitheatre in Pula, its two tiers of stone arches against a pale sky
    Pula's arena, day 1
  • A narrow stone lane in Rovinj's old town with pastel walls and a hanging shop sign
    Rovinj, day 2
  • A tabby cat resting on a stone window ledge behind iron bars in Motovun
    Motovun, day 6

Sample itinerary. This plan shows the format and level of detail of a VanSledright Travel itinerary. Opening hours, prices, ferry and tour times change, so confirm the details with each provider before you book.

Where should you stay in Istria?

Split the week between two bases. Spend four nights in Rovinj on the west coast: it’s central for Pula, Brijuni, the Lim Channel and Poreč, and its old town is one of the prettiest on the Adriatic. Then spend three nights inland near Motovun, ideally at a rural guesthouse (an agroturizam) with home cooking, so the hill towns are a short drive away.

If you’d rather not move, Rovinj alone works as a base for the whole week. Your inland days just become day trips.

How do you get to and around Istria?

The closest airport is Pula. Other options within driving distance include Rijeka, Trieste in Italy, Ljubljana in Slovenia and Venice, though check car rental rules before you cross a border with a hire car.

Rent a car for this trip. A motorway known as the Istrian Y links the main towns and has tolls. Old towns such as Rovinj are largely pedestrian, so plan to park outside the centre and walk in. Inland roads are narrow and winding but not difficult.

Day 1: Pula’s Roman sights

Morning. Arrive in Pula and pick up your car. Start at the Arena, Pula’s Roman amphitheatre and one of the best-preserved anywhere, and allow time to walk the outer ring and the underground galleries.

Afternoon. Walk through the old town to the Forum, where the Temple of Augustus still stands, and on to the Arch of the Sergii at the start of the main shopping street. Stop for coffee in the Forum square.

Evening. Drive north to Rovinj and check in. Have a first dinner in the old town: try fuži, Istria’s twisted pasta, or a plate of grilled fish, with a glass of local Malvazija white wine.

Day 2: Rovinj’s old town and the Golden Cape

Morning. Explore Rovinj’s old town before it gets busy. Wander up the cobbled lanes, including the gallery-lined Grisia street, to the Church of St. Euphemia at the top of the hill. If the bell tower is open, the climb gives a view over the town and the islands.

Afternoon. Walk or cycle south along the waterfront into the Golden Cape forest park (Zlatni rt), with pine woods and rocky coves for swimming. Bring water shoes, as most of the coast here is rock rather than sand.

Evening. Watch the sunset from the old town’s western edge, then have dinner at one of the harbour restaurants. Book ahead in summer.

Day 3: Brijuni Islands National Park

Morning. Drive to Fažana, about half an hour south of Rovinj, for the national park’s boat to the Brijuni Islands. Book the boat and tour with the park in advance, especially in summer. On Veli Brijun, the largest island, a guided tour by tourist train usually covers the safari park, Roman remains and the story of the islands as Tito’s summer residence.

Afternoon. Rent a bike or golf cart on the island if time allows, or return to Fažana for a seafood lunch on the waterfront; the town is known for its sardines.

Evening. Head back to Rovinj for a relaxed evening, or stop in Pula for dinner on the way.

Day 4: Cape Kamenjak and the southern tip

Morning. Drive to Premantura at Istria’s southern tip and into the Cape Kamenjak protected area. Its dirt roads lead to dozens of coves, cliffs and clear water, and it’s at its quietest early. Cars pay an entry fee in season, and the tracks are rough, so drive slowly.

Afternoon. Swim, walk the coastal paths and have lunch at one of the simple beach bars in the area, or bring a picnic. Bring sun protection; there’s very little shade.

Evening. Return to Rovinj for your last night on the coast. Pack tonight: tomorrow you move inland.

Day 5: The Lim Channel, Poreč and the drive inland

Morning. Check out and drive to the Lim Channel, a long, narrow sea inlet between steep wooded slopes, often compared to a fjord. Stop at the viewpoint on the road above it, then go down to the water for oysters and mussels, which are farmed in the channel.

Afternoon. Continue to Poreč and visit the Euphrasian Basilica, a 6th-century church complex with gold mosaics, listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Walk the Decumanus, the old Roman main street.

Evening. Drive inland to your base near Motovun. Have dinner at your guesthouse if it serves meals; many rural guesthouses in Istria do.

Day 6: Motovun and Grožnjan

Morning. Walk up into Motovun, a walled hilltop town above the Mirna river valley, and around its ramparts for views over the oak forest below. The forest is one of Istria’s best-known truffle grounds.

Afternoon. Have a long lunch with truffles, such as fuži or fritaja (Istrian omelette) with shaved truffle, then drive to Grožnjan, a small hill town known for its art galleries, studios and summer music. Walk its lanes and the viewpoint at the town’s edge.

Evening. Try a glass of Teran, the local red wine, at a wine bar in Grožnjan or back at your guesthouse.

Day 7: Hum, Roč and the Glagolitic Alley

Morning. Drive to Roč, then follow the Glagolitic Alley toward Hum: a road lined with stone monuments that celebrate the Glagolitic script, the old Slavic alphabet used in Istria for centuries. Stop at each one along the way.

Afternoon. Explore Hum, which bills itself as the smallest town in the world, and try biska, a mistletoe brandy made in the area. Continue to Buzet, another truffle town, or visit the Pazin Cave and castle on the way back.

Evening. Have a farewell dinner inland. Ask for maneštra, a hearty bean-and-vegetable soup, and Istrian pršut, the local cured ham.

What should you book ahead in Istria?

Book these before you go, especially from June to September:

  • Your hire car, collected at Pula Airport or in Pula.
  • The Brijuni boat and tour, directly with the national park.
  • Both bases: Rovinj books up fast in summer, and the best rural guesthouses have only a few rooms.
  • Dinner on summer evenings in Rovinj’s harbour restaurants.
  • A truffle hunt, if you’d like to join one, with a family-run truffle business near Motovun or Buzet.

Want an Istria plan built for your trip?

This sample is written for two adults with a car on a first visit. A custom plan starts from your own dates, budget and interests: more beaches, more wine, a family with young children, or Istria combined with Slovenia or Venice.

A custom itinerary for a trip of 4 to 7 days is $149. Send your details through the form below and we’ll confirm the plan and the price by email before you pay anything. See pricing for other trip lengths.

Common questions

Do you need a car in Istria?

For this plan, yes. Buses link the main coastal towns, but the hill towns, wineries and the Glagolitic Alley are hard or impossible to reach without a car, and you’d lose a lot of time waiting. Hire one at Pula Airport or in Pula. Note that the old towns of Rovinj and Motovun are best reached on foot from car parks outside them.

When is the best time to visit Istria?

June and September are the sweet spot, with warm sea water, open restaurants and smaller crowds than July and August, which are the busiest months on the coast. Autumn brings the white truffle season inland and quieter roads. Between late autumn and early spring the coast is calm, and some seasonal hotels and restaurants close.

Is 7 days enough for Istria?

Seven days covers the highlights at a comfortable pace: Pula, Rovinj, Poreč, Brijuni and the inland hill towns. Istria is small, so no drive in this plan is long. With more time, add a day in Opatija on the Kvarner coast, a wine route day around Buje, or a slower day at the beach.

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